Oslo and the Lofoten Island Rally   16th May to 13th June 2011

NOrWAY would we have wanted to miss this- read on and you’ll see why!

Clad in brightly coloured monogrammed fleeces and armed with the Rally tour books,
members met at the Bogstad Camping site in Oslo.  At teatime we gathered and introduced ourselves – 2 Dutch couples, 2 from the States, 4 New Zealanders (of various birth countries!) 1 from Guernsey and 5 English. This group started as it meant to go on and much hilarity prevailed.  We were joined on this site by the British Caravan Club Rally.

The night’s sleep was interrupted many times by the loud “lullabies” played from visiting buses equipped with huge speakers - these were antics of the students, who perform this ritual from 1st to 17th May each year.

On 17th May Norway celebrates their National Day.  Many of us witnessed the parade in Oslo of people in the colourful red National Costumes.   That evening, driving past the huge new ski jump, we joined the beautiful costumed Norwegians in the festivities at the Frognerseteren Hovedrestaurant.  Here we were offered a three course buffet of traditional dishes, which was beautifully presented. The restaurant is a converted private house and is situated high above Oslo. We marvelled at the panoramic view from its terrace. With tummies well filled, there followed a blissful sleep as the students had ended their nocturnal frolics.

 Next morning, refreshed, we boarded the coach to tour the Capital.  Albert, our guide, was amusing and informative first taking us on foot through Vigeland Park while explaining the many life sized granite and bronze figures, depicting humanity. . The sculptor, Vigeland, traded his works to the Nation in exchange for a house and studio in the park.  The 56 ft. monolith,on the highest point, comprise 121 human figures each supporting and holding onto each other.  He used ballet dancers as models as he judged them to have the best physique. In front of this were the gardens containing rose trees given by London in exchange for the Christmas tree.  We also walked through the Norsk Folk Museum exploring old re-constructed building, including the 1200 AD Gol Stave Church which is built without nails. Many other places were pointed out during the morning,  including the new Opera/Ballet house which has an Italian white marble sloping roof used as a plaza, the Cathedral, the Royal Palace at the top of the lilac tree lined Karl Johan Gate, the Storinget Parliament  and the City Hall where the Nobel Peace prizes are awarded.  Over the water from the Akerhus Slott Fortress is the Viking museum which displayed the three best preserved ships and gave amazing facts about them revealed by DNA testing.  The “Fram” Museet exhibition showed the part the vessel played in the discovery of the North passages and of the South Pole expeditions. This was next to the Kon Tiki Museum.  Albert left us to enjoy lunch at the art/deco Grand Hotel where the composer Henrik Ibsen  used to lunch daily – lucky man!  We just had to try more than one open sandwich. We were dropped back at the camp site to plan the following days more detailed individual look of Oslo. The “Scream”at the Art Gallery was high on the list.

We left the Caravan Club and travelled to Lillehammer, the site of the 1978 Olympics and then to Geiranger  .Here we left the warmth, and experienced snow,  banked high as we travelled the hair pin bends and stopped at Overhanging Rock in order to get the famous view of Gieranger Fjord.  We camped at the water’s edge and watched tenders about the huge Italian liner and the even bigger Queen Elizabeth ll the next day.  Some energetic people hiked up to the waterfall in order to climb down behind it and experience the thundering fall in front of them.  Some braved the zig zag Troll Road going up the side of the fjord. We left on ferries, in two groups to disembark at the junction of Geirangerfjord/Sunnyivsfjiorden.    During the fiord cruise, the captain pointed out the waterfalls – “Seven sisters” and the “Bottle” and told of the farmer who pulled up his ladder thus denying the tax collector the only access. He said that apricots were being grown here. From the road we looked down to see the Hurtigruten Postboat being overtaken in the fjord by two very fast jets.

 We arrived in Alesund after taking our time along the lovely E60 road and the ferry at Sykkyleven. Three nights here gave us time to appreciate this Art Nouveau style town spread over several islands.  Our guide took us on a wet and cold walking tour, tantalizingly pointing out the best coffee places before whisking us ever onwards. 

The exciting Atlantic Highway awaited us on the next bit of the tour with the road skipping from island to islet. Some hoped for the drama of a stormy sea but others were relieved that it was not. The 5.7kms long and 248 metre deep Atlanterhavstunnel was also on route to Kristiansund giving a seemingly never ending roller coaster ride under the Ocean.

Trondheim, which is totally surrounded by the fjord and River Nidelva , was our next city to explore, firstly with a guided coach tour from our camp site in Bosberg. Later as each wished, we visited the sites – the cathedral (designed with influences of our Westminster and Lincoln Cathedrals) , the red town bridge over to the colourful old riverside warehouse buildings, and the Fish Market – at last fish to buy!  The local bus took us the short ride back to the camp site.  We were surprised to negotiate a roundabout in the tunnel going out of Trondheim on our way to Mosjeon. Some deviated from the main road to Bolareienen, and found the 6,000 year old rock carving which according to the sign is “the most famous reindeer in the world”– oddly it didn’t have a red nose!  Afterwards as we started to really travel far north, we experienced reindeer on the road and glimpsed the illusive moose.  At the camp site, which is surrounded by snow clad mountains our Swiss born Kiwi, Lisette Benkert, entertained us with wonderful songs and yodelling, as we sat around the open sided hut containing the camp fire prepared by Dave Moncrieff..  Here the Caravan Club caught us up and they told us that they now travel to Bodo on the coast, for four days, before heading back south.

Next came the exciting ride as described in one book as “Being in Fairy Land” It is indeed very beautiful with white rushing water of rivers and waterfalls among the snow and mountains, and the shelf like road around the Skierstad fjord. We met up at the Arctic Circle for the group photo. One brave fellow amusingly threw a well aimed snowball at our leader as she presented us with our Blue Nosed Campers Certificates.   We were thankful to seek the refuge along the pink granite path which marked the circle at 66’33’degrees, to the warmth of the building where we watched the video.  It explained the midnight sun and the winter darkness and listed the eight countries through which the circle passes.  The road was closed only once last winter. Should the weather be very bad, escorting vehicles are used.

 The Lofoten Islands are our destination via the ferry from Skutvik to Svolvaer.  The camp here is stunningly situated overlooking the water and the mountains and we stayed for four nights to explore the islands.  We agreed that the village of Reine is justly the most photographed place, many passing it on the way to A at the very south of the Islands. We passed many wooden frames containing the drying klippfish, or Stockfish as it is named on these islands and is said to be the best.   The fish livers are made into cod liver oil, the roe to Norwegian Caviar and the rest is dried on the frames.  The heads are made into fertiliser and go to Africa and the Stockfish mostly to Italy. Moskenes is made famous by the Maelstrom written about by Jules Verne, and it can be also experienced from Bodo.  The land is fertile and is kept warm by the Gulf Stream – but not this day as the weather can only be described as “foul”!
The group supper was in the delightful neighbouring village of Lyngvaer, in the waterside fish restaurant.  We were offered Cod tongues or Catfish but most order beef!  How do Eleanor and Dave find these wonderful places to eat?  The midnight sun is captured on film to round off a lovely evening.

Then we crossed to Sweden and into the last great wilderness of Europe to reach the fashionable ski resort of Bjoklidden.  The campsite is not officially open but kindly accommodated us, such was the prior powers of persuasion of our leaders!  The amazing Abisko National Park gave us the next delightful drive and we followed the huge River Luleaven through to Jokkmokk, where we enjoyed the Sami handicrafts.   Here we were back to winterscape with the trees still in tight bud.  There are lots of wooded lodges dotted about, but no visible sign of access, and we crossed the Arctic Circle again.

The landscape changed from the beauty of the mountains to that of lakes and trees.  Members were interested in the massive iron ore mine on route at Kiruna and the huge wooden cathedral.  Here we found less costly groceries. We met another great river – the Pitealeven.  We reached Soresele and the town-park like camp site complete with outdoor swimming pool.  We were entertained by the graceful flight of terns over our vans by the lakes.  The sun is on overtime to make up for its absence and is still very bright at bedtime, even the cuckoo is still shouting at midnight.  Four vans left the rally in order to follow the Wilderness Road.  After being put in the right direction by Dave Moncrieff the convoy later enthused about the scenery and the impressive waterfall, but would rather not have had the Arctic storms during the night.  The rest of us travelled through electric storms to Ostersund and then to Torsby on the E45 road with the never ending scenery of trees.  A break in the village of Nusnas near Mora gave relief and a visit to the Dalahast factory which produces the famous bright red and ornately painted wooden horses.  Then back to the E45 as the traffic increased from the occasional vehicle as we neared Gothenburg.  A visit to the Aquaduct at Haverrud  and the Dalsland Kanal was scheduled by some, others made directly to the camp at Torsby

From the final camp at Askim a treat was arranged with a visit to the Volvo factory. Enthusiastic members were thrilled with the little train ride which took us around the massive production line, as the guide explained each procedure.  The museum proved just as interesting and many identified with the exhibits.    Back at the campsite the beach gave us pleasant walks and relaxation ready for the onward journey, or home. 

The final meal was a lunch in the Langedrag Vardshus, a seaside restaurant, again another winner as regards memorable places to eat.  Our heartfelt thanks were expressed by the ever amusing Ben Chilcutt the Hon Rep for USA Mid-south, to Leaders Eleanor and Freddie, and Assistant Leaders Dave and Josie with gifts of Swedish glassware    The Rally Officers ICA presentation was by Art Petranek the USA Vice Chairman, who offered to provide dvds  of this wonderful rally. 

P